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Posted on Thursday February 25th 2010 at 6:00 a.m.
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The crazy anticipation of running up the black sand dunes out west after being in the hot car for hours is the deciding moment. Has all this driving been worth it?.... Only to be greeted with an onshore wind & 2 foot of slop. Gutted!
Disappointed and gutted feelings fill the air. I really thought it'd b good! Burning out again....This sucks.
Ok mate, maybe this means offshores out east? Maybe something bigger than 2 foot? The forecast was looking ok across the other side of the island but nothing amazing predicted. Still, determination, faith and patience has played a huge part in my scoring epic waves in the past. I convinced my bro to keep the faith and text my boss asking for tomorrow off work as I really needed some stoke. Back into the car again and off we cruise for a few hours. The best thing about living in New Zealand is that we can travel from one coast to the next in a few hours...or less. Id taken a days leave now so Id better score!
A few hours later we crash out in the wagon up on the top hill above our favourite east coast spot. We could hear a few waves breaking but it sounded pretty weak and from the moonlight it didn't look much better than what we had witnessed at our west coast fail several hours beforehand. Disappointment again starting to kick in...burning out again....
I wake up and its slowly getting lighter, we jump outa the car... again the crazy anticipation of the moment before you see the ocean and BAM! Its about 2 foot and really weak..... Gutted again! Although the wind is offshore over here. Guess that's 1 element correct. I'm loosing all faith and determination now...
Ok lets drive down the coast and check some other breaks says my bro.
Another hour in the car and its almost fully light and we rock up in the car park to the next best spot. The golden sun starts to rise and I grab my camera before jumping out of the car and again we run up the dunes with great anticipation (just a little less patience this time).
Oh my gosh. Clean lined up swell pouring into the bay and only one other guy out. Then a set comes in and this 1 guy is on it. I hold up my camera and roughly frame the shot. Click "Woah" Click "Woahhhhhhhh" Click. This guy disappears into the barrel.
Wooaaahhhhh!!!! Click. He comes out, with a few wacks on the lip after that. Stoked to capture that moment I thought. You know its good when the first thing you see is a guy get a perfect tube right in front of you.
Its really only takes a small amount of faith, determination and patience. Maybe a little more patience on top of that! I had almost lost all hope in scoring good waves that day. It seems to turn on sometimes when you least expect it.
The rest of the day was just amazing. Crazy fast barrels all day long and super sunny. The wind was offshore all day and the swell just continued to pulse. We had scored!!! A perfect day to take off work. The Best day of 2010 so far for sure.
This stoke will last a while I think!
Dave
There is only one more week to enter our 'Surf Road Tripping' competition. Among all the prizes is a custom Pete Anderson surfboard!