Josiah Schmucker (a young, big wave charger from Streaky Bay) flew across the nite before from S Australia when the conditions looked perfect at Ours for the following day.
The surf pumped all day - it was the same day Layne Beachley became the first female to surf the spot and managed to catch THAT wave which featured everywhere in the media the next few days (see my pics in the latest Curl magazine).
Josiah had surfed pretty much most of the day. This happened late in the arvo.
I don't know exactly what it was that made Josiah change his mind and try to do what he did but you just don't go left at Ours - never - ever.
However, the consequences of going right must have been more drastic than those of going left. The water is quite shallow where the wave is breaking and barnacle covered rocks are just waiting to shred your wetsuit and limbs.
Call it "The Great Escape", call it what you will but Josiah was one very lucky chappie to do what he did and come out in one piece. Check the last three images and see what I mean. How would you feel scratching and clawing your way thru' the back wall and roof of this beast?
Have a good Xmas and all the best for the New Year!
Strauss
PS - just imagine what was going thru' the surfboard's mind at the time???