Spring Offerings from the Northwest

Comment Share Posted on Friday October 21st 2011 at 6:00 a.m. Tweet

'Round here, surfers ears tend to prick up whenever the rumour of a North-west swell drops. As established by years of the mundane walking in straight lines, it is all about the angles, and though constanly open by degrees to the possibilities, the event of bumps stackin' down the coast, as opposed to up, is always a novel one that sets minds a-floatin'.

I like the idea myself of precious little gems finding their feet for a short run of glory, 'specially if it goes unnoticed ('cept by my lens of course)- gems that lie hidden for a lot longer than you'd realise, or could be bothered to wait for anyways. It's in the knowing that settlement comes, calm existence between lighting up. Like history repeating, enjoying the script word for word like an old favourite movie.

It doesn't really stand still though and, with reason supplanting the liquidity of the situation, why would it? Head on, head along, and nothing worked out as it seemed. Sand all wrong - pockets, pock-marked, dirty black holes, but also some fresh peaks beneath the chisel grey and lumber. Northern Cali, but at home - still, coulda been bigger.

Some warped idealogues changed, as they do, where running back into the pit suited better than running away with the crowd. More open you see, a wedge with lemon. Some flash with even more glare, but also finer times with a smooth entry exit strategy and an on-railedness that sat just right.

It's pretty cool out here - the winds offshore and the gannets are absolutely ripping, even though a slippery rain is starting to fall, I think I'm gonna shelter behind this rock for a while longer and be what may. Tenacity is a good omen in the face of a lonesome road.

Nor-west swell 2 metres @ 11 seconds or so (seems about right) nor/nor-east winds flicking more east as the light failed. Enjoy :)

Rowan

Rowan Klevstul has been documenting and writing about surfing in New Zealand since 2000. If you're after a piece of eclectic surf photography, contact Rowan on 021 252 7970 or at rjklevstul@clear.net.nz.