These images did not come from dreams or prayers they come from real life changing experiences and memories from the past. Missions that have changed the way we look at the world creating a positive pre-occupation with tracking monster swells that roam our Oceans at home and abroad.
The stories flow with in-depth detail and emotion, at times veering of track, but the white lines soon put us right! As the sun started to show a quick bakery/caffeine fix at the new found favorite small town stop, recharged the wind pipes and put us on the beach ready to launch in perfect time.
As we started to bare our goose bumps to the fresh chill in the air, we are joined by Regan Low, chief image grabber, Maz and all the usual chargers that lock away lengthy tube time in every session.
With the sun beaming and the swell peaking the scene is set for an epic day! We hit the water running, punch a big set and congregate at the offshore reef like a pack of excited puppies.
We trade off the bomb sets and all get our fair share of spitting shacks and hard core slap downs! An amazing day was had by all and we all come away with a sense of satisfaction reinforcing the fact that we are all on the right track and the world is right!
Click on the picture below to view all the shots!
Doug Young
Photo's by RJLowPhotography